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“Like Oscar Hermosillo’s Venice Beach Wines, which single-handedly transformed dingy Rose Avenue into a happy-hour destination, everything about Oscar’s Cerveteca is casually convivial (from the small front dining patio to the sit-down counter overlooking the open kitchen), almost as if a perpetual neighborhood fiesta were taking place.

The beer bar serves 12 taps and 90 bottled brews, along with a menu of Los Angeles-inspired dishes, many of which are Oscar’s Mama’s recipes. The standout starter is Chicano Cheese Pots, a deconstructed nacho plate with chips, chilies and two steaming pots of cheese: one a panela cheese, and the other a heavenly mélange of pimento cheese and corn dip. Norma’s peel-and-eat chipotle beer shrimp is another delicious (but messy) appetizer.

The Coca’s Torta sandwich arrives heaped with ancho-braised pork, caramelized onion and vinegar slaw, while platos grandes—such as a simple grilled halibut with lemon gremolata—come with a choice of sides (go for the patatas bravas fried in cake flour for extra crunch). For dessert, it’s a toss-up between a plantain and banana cream pie and strawberry shortcake”